Mysore is known as the home of Astanga Vinyasa Yoga. It is
here that Jois has dedicated his life to the practice and teaching
of this approach to yoga. This approach is also responsible
for the current global yoga popularity, though watered down
in many off-shoot forms. One thing is for sure, Sri Jois has
stayed true and committed to its teaching in a very clear and
thorough manner over the past 65+ years. A visit to Mysore
and the Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute will reveal this fact.
Studying with Pattabhi Jois, or Guruji, and his grandson Sharath,
gives one the real flavour of how the practice is. January
2003 saw the AYRI open its doors at a new location after 50
or so years at the "old shala." This new shala is
a magnificent structure with a large and bright practice space.
Focus, calm and joy permeate through Guruji's and Sharath's
teaching. These qualities are the product of yoga and can easily
be felt. We are aware that yoga is not merely about the physical.
It becomes clear in this approach and their teaching. Patience,
focus and dedication lead one to growth and advancement. The
ambience created in this space tends to nurture these qualities.
If not, the result is one's own personal anguish and disappointment.
Guruji will just simply say, "Yes, you come, you do." The
maxim, "Practice, practice, practice and all is coming," is
to be realized here. Although Guruji is in his 90s, his strength
and vitality are great to see and experience.
The shala is open to all levels, from the absolute beginner
to the seasoned, returning practitioner. Practice begins at
6am with space for about 60-70 students at a time. If one is
arriving new there will probably be a wait time. As one student
finishes the next fills the spot. If you like to watch others
practicing you may sit there for an hour, otherwise wait time
could be 5 to 15 minutes. A look into the room will find a
very vibrant and active Guruji and Sharath teaching and adjusting.
The approach to teaching here is the "Mysore" style
or self practice. Every student learns the sequence of postures,
combining the linking movement known as vinyasa. If you are
new to the practice, do not know the sequence or have difficulty
in poses, you will receive ample attention as is required.
Those more familiar and adept with the series will be let practice
on.
Adjustments are given when needed and not for the sake
of trying to satisfy every student's desires. Through yoga
one becomes non-dependent. Teaching is ultimately subtle. Hands-on
when needed. Sharath will carefully monitor your practice and
let you know when you're ready for new poses or to begin a
new series. Commitment and time in practice are required. The
key to the best experience there is to come each day and just
practice, no expectations. After all, this is yoga and it's
our own inner experience. One thing is for sure, both Guruji
and Sharath care about yoga, the practice and the student.
They are not there to try to push people on or satisfy individual
wants. The integrity of the practice is highlighted. And this
is why we go to such experienced teachers.
In addition to practicing and studying under the Astanga masters
themselves, Guruji and Sharath have also made Sanskrit chanting
available to students in the afternoon and Sanskrit language
in the morning. This takes place in the shala for registered
students at 300 rps.
There is a monthly fee with an additional registration fee
the first month you come. A three-month stay at least is recommended,
longer if you can is great, and if you only have one month
then you are also most welcome. You can register from 4:30-5:30pm,
Monday to Friday. Bring a passport photo. If you know for sure
you are coming, then it is recommended to write in advance
and let them know. To get to the shala, just give any rickshaw
driver the following address. This is also where you will write.
Enjoy the experience.
Sri K. Pattabhi Jois, Sharath Rangaswamy, Ashtanga Yoga Research
Institute, 235 8th Cross, 3rd Stage Gokulam, Mysore 570002,
Karnataka State, India |
LIVING IN GOKULUM
Gokulam is a suburb of Mysore, away from most of the noise,
traffic and pollution of the city, and considered to be one
of the prime residential spots. Characteristic signs of India
are ever present there but it is a much more comfortable
and homely area to live in. Perhaps the best element for
the yoga student staying in this neighborhood is the freedom
and ease to walk to yoga, walk to lunch, walk to a friend's
place, walk to evening chanting or walk to the corner store
or Internet for your basic requirements.
Gokulam has become the new focus for students as of January
2003 due to the fact that Sri. Pattabhi Jois has relocated
his yoga shala to a new and impressive space in this neighborhood.
All the facilities from the last twenty years or so are still
available in the old areas but Gokulam is receiving students
and facilities in growing numbers.
As mentioned, much neighbourhood walking, even strolling,
can be done yet, on your own scooter, or braving the rickshaw
man, a 10-minute ride gets you in to the "city." So all
in all the neighborhood is much "calmer," as Guruji
would say, but also quite accessible to whatever you want to
do in Mysore. Living here is just getting established, but
already after a few months, the majority of students are finding
places, some through word-of-mouth and others through real
estate agents. Therefore, enquiring with other students at
the shala and the odd other "helper" of students
should lead you to something quite quickly. As the student
turnover in Gokulam grows, so will the number of places and
the knowledge of them. The best source is always the student
grapevine to find out who has a share available or if someone
is leaving and their apartment will be available. Expect to
pay a little more than in old Lakshmipuram. Rents can be from
3000 - 9000 rps but the quality of place is higher and newer.
Grocery Shopping Apart from the standard corner store and
fruit and veg shop there are two supermarkets. Loyal World
is on Temple Road. If heading out of Gokulam on the main
road, instead of going straight to the city or train station,
you go right for Loyal World. This road is also dotted with
many fruit and veg stalls. To the end of it and left you
will find a brand new Nilgiris which is probably the best
shopping spot in Mysore. It is the same road as the Southern
Star, just in case the previous directions lost you!
Internet
There are a few small Internet "cafes" in
Gokulam. All are connected by cable but the speed and connection
does vary.The best I found was next to Coffee Days<for directions
see below>which is brand new and state of the art.
Food
This is such an important aspect of students' lives. Not
just because of its effect on your practice, but because it
can mean the difference between staying healthy or getting
sick. Eat clean and well, help in keeping the immune system
strong, and your days should be peaceful and healthy. It's
never a one hundred percent, as India has a great power on
the first time arrivee of cleaning them out, which ultimately
is recommended, but research does reveal that those who get
sick have eaten badly, drank tap water or even brushed their
teeth with it. I recommend taking ? to clean cutlery and plates
with and ?
There are only a few restaurants in all of Mysore, and perhaps
all of India, that we would recommend. Indian restaurant food,
chiefly the north Indian cooked meals, are loaded with oil
and a thickening powder, which ultimately doesn't treat your
stomach and intestine nicely. South Indian thalis, idlies,
dosas, rice bhaths are pretty free of them. Even better is
home cooked food, either by yourself or some of the industrious
Indian ladies in Gokulam who do so with love. Here are a few:
Home Cooked
First, mention has to be given to the great "Aunty." Although
she is not in Gokulam, she has been serving clean, healthy
and nutritious breakfasts, lunches and dinners to students
for the past five years or more. If going toward the city or
living in Lakshmipuram or its vicinity she is worth it. Her
little house is opposite the Kaveri Lodge Hotel with a small
sign saying "Aunty house." Some students bring her
to their house to do a special meal. Currently she's coming
to Gokulam to one the student's houses on Mondays. Well worth
and really the best!
- Janaki, aka Bay's Landlady. After a request from some
of the students Janaki has started offering some of the most
tasty and nutritious food you'll find on this planet. Her
thought was never to do it as a business or to make money
but just to feed us with love. It's seen in her face. This
aspect of intention is most important which tells us the
purity of the food. It's too difficult to explain how to
find so just ask some of the students. Now known as Janaki's
Yogic Foods, she cooks on Tuesdays and Thursdays. It is wise
to let her know in advance. Call 500058. If you have a group
that wants to eat on another day you can also call her to
book it.
- Tina’s, She has also relocated to Gokulam. Her house
is just off the KRS Road near the Hare Krishna temple. She's
made a nice little garden café in the back. She serves
breakfasts to all the students but is also known for her cooking
lessons. A few students get together and are taken through
a cooking session of their choice. The result is that you get
to enjoy the fruit of your labour.
- The Three Sisters did relocate to Gokulam but are now
back in their old place near the Kaveri Lodge. They have
thalis, all clean, nutritious and home cooked, as well as
their renowned juice bar. Their juices are made the same
as any juice bar in the West, which means just the fruit
and/or vegetable. (Avoid the Indian juice stops as they add
sugar and their water which will give you a majorly fast "cleansing" period.)As
well as the juices and food they offer the most painful, massage
I have ever had,you should try it.
- Also out of Gokulam is Sandhya. A student of Guruji in
the early 70s as a young lady now she has rooms and mouth
watering lunches for students. She's back in the old neighbourhood
though, near Lakshmipuram, just up from Mahesh Prasad.
Lunches can be arranged there. Her number is 332648.
- Gokul chats or more commonly known as Woodlands because
it's beside the Woodlands Guesthouse, is just off of the KRS
Road when turning into Gokulam. Great big idlies (and if you
don't know what an idly is, just try one, with sambar, and
they're perfectly safe!!) We didn't like their thali though.
- There's a brand new Nalpak on the main Gokulam road. Very
clean, lots of space and choice. Perfect for breakfast or lunch.
- Green Leaf is a new, clean restaurant
frequented by Gokulam living Western students of yoga. It is
off of Temple Road, perpendicular to it, at the second roundabout,
meaning the one just after Loyal World supermarket. They offer
everything.
-Coffee Days is a western style coffee house which is above
the Green Leaf is very clean and inviting and the best coffee
and cake around .
Water As mentioned, do not drink or brush your teeth with
water from the taps. When showering, or more likely taking
a bucket bath, just keep your lips closed. This is not to make
you paranoid, as it is pretty safe here, but it's better to
be wise and safe. So take the precaution. Dishes and utensils
can be washed in tap water; just make sure whatever you use
is dry. Simple as that. You can buy bottled water from most
stores but most convenient is to have a big 25 liter vessel
delivered. The best and quickest in Gokulam we have found is
Marina. Call them on 500564. Best to call in the morning so
you get the lady with good English. Tell them you are new.
A deposit is required for the can, 250 rps, and then it's 50
rps for each load of water. Well worth it!!
Coconuts Fortunately for all at the yoga shala, Beck, the coconut-man
of Lakshmipuram, is outside every morning with a fresh batch
of juicy and sweet coconuts. These are one of the best things
about practicing in Mysore. They are excellent for rehydration
post practice and the "white meat" of it, known as
gungy, is also great for you. Anyway, on-the-spot outside service
is there! Also the coconut stand at the cross is a good place
to chat and enjoy a coconut.
Accommodation is easy to find, any local rickshaw driver
will be able to take you to apartments for rent, be ready to
negotiate they may expect a commission; tell them to seek a
payment from the apartment owner. Shiva is the local wheeler
dealer and will be able to find you what you need. His contact
details are at the shala and he opens his office (just across
the street from the shala) at various times during the week.
There are local b&b’s and hotels for temporary accomadation.
Scooters - Motorbike Rental
The most local supplier of scooters and
motorbikes is Shiva; you will find his contact details at the
shala. |
